The day began with an idyllic ride on this forest road-- cars were apparently not excluded but none passed us for hours. I knew we were in the area of the east west border and wondered if this paved road was part of the system but was never clear on that. When we left the forest, we were in an agricultural area, then came upon an open air museum with all the elements of border fence security as it was fully developed by the 1980's.
A five kilometer border zone was first established in 1952. Persons living close to the border or deemed politically unreliable were moved out of this zone but farming was continued where possible. Persons authorized to enter the zone were strictly controlled and were expected to contribute to border security. In the beginning there was no fence, just gates at crossroads. As the system developed a signal fence was installed. The fence included strands of electrified wire that activated an alarm if cut or pulled.
Layers of complexity were added over the years. Mining of the borders began in 1966 but mines were removed in 1984 in the face of international condemnation. "Hedgehog" strips were designed to ruin vehicle tires, devices were added to the fences to shoot shrapnel, dogs on long runs patrolled some sections and after the mines were removed, the border included and anti-vehicle ditch that sloped down and ended in a brick or concrete wall.
This type of small observation tower was common but has mostly disappeared. It was designed for two guards, had rifle slots and a can toilet.
Once we learned to recognize the distinctive type of fence wire used in the border, we sometimes saw recycled bits like this.
We several times cycled on concrete paths but didn't realize until later that they were remnants of the old border road.
Our destination for the day was Boizenburg, a town just a few kilometers inside the east west border. Fittingly, the hotel where we stayed was renovated from a facility that housed members of the Stasi, the "Ministry for State Security." Our ride was short enough that we saddled up after a short break and rode into the city itself. There we got our first view of the Elbe since Hamburg-- a pastoral scene wildly different from the forest of cranes and ships we had seen in the harbor.
While John explored the town with Ingrid and Bill, I rode off with Liz and Rick to look at another outdoor museum. This was "Checkpoint Harry", an observation tower and associated building that has now been turned into a restaurant by that same name.
Our hotel restaurant featured many dishes made with kangaroo meat but none of us availed ourselves of it. They also keep ostriches-- not for eating but for eggs and we were given complimentary glasses of ostrich egg liqueur when our meal was finished. It was lovely and sweet and went down very well.
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